Cooking up Dreams
The Godmother of Indian cuisine, Kiran Verma sits down with Dan Mayur to share her journey and the recipe for Kiran’s.
Houstonians with a discerning palate know that a bright star has risen on the horizon of the city’s restaurant landscape. In this highly competitive business, Kiran Verma, Executive Chef and Owner of Kiran’s, stands tall. Fondly called the Godmother of up-scale dining, she represents India at its culinary best. Located in the fashionable Upper Kirby district, Kiran’s spacious interior epitomizes elegance, class, and quality at a level rarely visible in Indian restaurants.
Connoisseurs see Kiran’s cuisine as a titillating fusion of the East and West, a combination of cultures, philosophies and cooking techniques, while retaining Indian authenticity and traditions. You never go to Kiran’s just once. There is always more to try and taste. Among the numerous innovative dishes at Kiran’s, my favorites are the Mango Lassi, Seekh Kebab, Chilean Sea Bass, Rack of Lamb, Bison Kofta Curry, and her incredible selection of specialty Naans, crisp veggies, delectable Biryanis and the mouthwatering Trio of Crème Brulee or Gulab Jamun for dessert. Talking about innovation, a must-try in all its delicious decadence here is the Samosa filled with chocolate hazelnut ganache with salted caramel and chai ice cream!
Kiran’s has been recognized in the local media and its list of awards is as long as its extensive menu.
Behind this classic American success story is a human dynamo of unbounded energy and passion for excellence, Kiran Verma, the person. I have known Kiran for over two decades, and have watched her spectacular growth with admiration. What makes Kiran tick?
Chef Kiran Photo by Chuck Cook
On a fine Monday morning recently, at 11 AM sharp, I arrived at Kiran’s to listen to her fascinating life story. She was in her trade-mark Chef’s coat giving instructions of the day to her staff. It was too early for the lunch guests to arrive, but the place was abuzz with activity. She greeted me with a big hug and an even bigger smile. We sat down at a cozy table in her beautifully appointed bar, where a waiter brought us steaming Masala Chai and a plate of home-made biscotti. She knew my purpose and obliged.
The product of a traditional middle-class Indian family, Kiran was married at 18 leaving her dream of a professional education unfulfilled. But she still longed for a career, to be financially independent, and to do good while doing well. She had always enjoyed cooking and feeding. Her drive, compassion, and nurturing attitude led her to cooking beyond the familial setting. She cooked for the friends of her children, neighbors, and acquaintances. When the children flew away to college, and the Vermas became empty-nesters, Kiran jumped into the restaurant business with both feet. There are Indian restaurants galore in Houston, most of them featuring mediocre and mundane buffets. Kiran recognized a definite need and market for an upscale Indian restaurant. She chose class over mass, focusing on quality, not quantity.
Immensely proud of her Indian heritage, she has been driven to restore Indian cuisine to its rightful glory and to make cooking a respectable profession. With that philosophy, she has emphasized contemporary décor, fine china, excellent wines, and above all else, exquisite food and incomparable service. Her formula is simple. “Use the finest, freshest ingredients with subtle use of herbs and spices for delicate flavors to create delicious, light and healthy meals. Just like grandma’s cooking.”
Coincidentally, as she finished saying this, a waiter brought out the most delicious Corn Soup with Poblano, hot buttered Stuffed Paratha, and zesty Paneer Karahi.
She says “Cooking is both a sensual and spiritual activity.” She strives to create a lavish experience for her customers. Attention to detail and learning from others for continuous improvement is how she does it. She treats every party she caters to as her own. She proudly says, “I taste every sauce, every dressing. Nothing leaves the kitchen without my approval.”
Kiran is supported by husband Shiv and daughter Puja. The mother-daughter pair reminds me of the Double Mint commercial, two look-alike lovely ladies doing their thing in perfect harmony.
What’s next for Kiran? Achieving a Michelin star rating is her avowed goal. With her determination, drive, and dedication, we have no doubt this dream will become a reality.
